With primeval forests, rocky crags and rushing streams, Zhangjiajie is a sublimely beautiful place to explore nature's bounty. Be sure to bring lots of film and a good pair of shoes.
 |
Stashed away in a remote northwestern corner of Hunan Province, bordering Guizhou and Chongqing, is the Wulingyuan Scenic Reserve, better known as Zhangjiajie. Wisely set aside in 1982 as one of China's first nature reserves, Wulingyuan protects an astounding variety of flora, fauna and minority tribes. The area has been given a UNESCO World Heritage listing, so extensive protection is in place, such as a complete fire ban (including smoking), conveniently placed rubbish bins and flagged erosion-resistance paths. The reserve is home to three of China's minority groups, the Tujia, Miao, and Bai who continue to carry on their traditional ways. In Zhangjiajie Village, there is a Museum of Tujia Culture focusing on traditional handicrafts. Traditional song and dance performances are held here and are a great way to get a taste of the local color. This is not simply a show to make the tourists happy, but is a family run center with aims of cultural preservation. The Tujja are suspected by some to be the last remaining descendants of western China's mysterious prehistoric Ba Kingdom. Low cloud coverage and an endless array of streams often leave the reserve covered in a primordial mist. Original vegetation still covers 60% of the park and includes some 550 different species of trees. Some highlights include rare dove trees, ginkos and dawn redwoods, which were, until 1948, believed to be extinct. Highly prized medicinal herbs used in Chinese traditional medicine spring from the valley floor and grow on the high peaks.
 |
In the less crowded parts live wild animals and many species of rare bird. Rhesus monkeys, giant salamanders, civets, golden pheasants and tragopans populate the vast expanse of forest. It's a fairytale land of sandstone cliffs and fractured limestone pinnacles and lush subtropical foliage laced with clear, fast green streams covers the forest floor. As would be expected from a nature reserve, most of the highlights are scenic spots. Atop a mountain peak, one of the most popular is Huangshi Village. For those inclined to hike, it'll take around 2 hours to get up the 3,878 stone steps, or for those who prefer to watch, a cable car whips you up to the top for RMB 48. Located in the northern section of the reserve, the highest point, Tianzi Peak, at 1,250m, provides stunning views of the park and a top-of-the-world feeling for those who make the climb. As in most Chinese parks, poets and artists have been visiting for thousands of years and have given imaginative names to many lookouts, gorges and peaks.
For fans of caves, Zhangjiajie has enough to please. Jiutian Cave, featuring Asia's largest chamber, is a massive limestone affair. Somewhat more accessible and located on the main trail in from Tianzi Shan Village is Shuanghe Cave. Suoxi Valle features the Yellow Dragon Cave, a series of limestone caverns interconnected by a subterranean river. Another option growing more popular by the year is whitewater rafting. Although Zhangjiajie's rivers have not earned much renown, the neighboring Mengdong River is one of China's most popular stretches for river rafting. While the rapids are nothing death-defying, the clarity of the water and solitude of the high mountains and lush forests that continues to draw visitors. In these sparsely populated cliffs and gorges, it is not uncommon to see monkeys swinging through the treetops and reaching into the water for fish.
ZHANGJIAJIE'S HEAVENLY TRAILS
For sheer highlights and a chance to more fully take in the awesome splendor of Wulingyuan, few options surpass hiking along the numerous trails interlacing the mountains, gullies and forests. The high plateau surrounding the reserve only serves to accentuate the dramatic pinnacles and crags of Zhangjiajie. It creates the illusion that the ground is opening up at the valley floor, shattering the earth into forested towers of rock. For hiking and exploring Zhangjiajie, there are numerous trails waiting to be traversed. From Zhangjiajie Village, the road leads down to the park entrance where single and multi-day passes can be purchased. Sedan chairs can also be hired to carry you along the trails for around RMB 100.
Branching left after the main gate, on the trail to Huangshi Village is a 4-hour circuit winding through a lush, forested valley. The crisp, clear Pipa Stream Ethnic Miao men serenade their sweethearts in a courtship dance. gurgles along to the left of the path, crossed by several bridges. Along the way, there are
numerous pagodas and viewing platforms ideal for a rest stop or a picnic lunch beneath
the shadows of the mighty Double Pagoda Peak.
To the right of the entrance are several different paths. The shortest, also clocking around 4 hour
