Yungang Caves, a Mountain of Buddhas        2008-6-22 15:19:13

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Neatly arranged rows upon rows of tiny seated Buddha carved into the walls greet you upon entering Cave 15. There are more than 10,000 miniature Buddha carvings in this cave, thus the name Cave of Ten Thousand Buddha. Royal stories are behind Caves 16 to 20, the oldest caves in Yungang. Each of the statues in the five caves symbolizes an emperor from the Northern Wei dynasty, reflecting their belief that the emperor is a living embodiment of Buddha. The caves, collectively known as "Five Cloudy and Luminary Caves" were created in AD 453 to 462. According to the legend, one emperor was convinced by an adviser to renounce Buddhism. To the adviser's misfortune, the emperor followed his suggestion then immediately fell ill. After executing his non-believing adviser, the wayward emperor returned to the faith and quickly recovered from his illness. The succeeding emperor began construction of these caves as a sign of piety in hopes of avoiding his predecessor's fate. The Buddhas here are clad in robes with their palms pressed together in front of their chests, a gesture of devotion.

Most of the caves were dug during the Northern Wei dynasty; however, Cave 3, the largest of the Yungang caves, was created by later artists during the Sui and Tang dynasties. The face of the cliff into which it was carved is about 24m high; on the upper central part are 12 rectangular holes that were used to hold beams that used to support a monastery. The cave is divided into inner and outer chambers. There is now only one Buddha statue and two bodhisattvas in the west end of the inner chamber. The faces of these images are full and smooth, the figures full-bodied. Because this cave was carved at a later period, the sculptural style here differs from

The Hanging Temple clings to the side if Hengshan in Shanxi Province

that in the other caves.

Yungang Caves are famous for their depictions of the Buddha, but other celestial beings are also represented. There are minutely detailed bodhisattvas, disciples who have elected to forego nirvana in order to save others. Some caves are guarded by stone soldiers and others are covered with exuberant designs painted onto walls and ceilings. The mingling of different cultures in ancient Datong is vividly reflected in the cave art.

Unfortunately, pollution from this industrialized valley has had a profound effect on the statues. Soot has covered the exposed areas of many of the carvings, while their undersides, which are normally hidden in shadow, appear bright in contrast.

Besides the caves, there are many other sites of interest within driving distance. One interesting sight is the i,S00-year-old Hanging Temple . The temple is a Northern Wei dynasty structure that clings precariously to the side of the Heng Shan mountain range. Caves carved into the cliffs or along natural contours make up the rooms and walkways, and bridges connect the different halls. Rain or shine, a few dozen slender beams acrobatically balance the temple and visitors walking on top of the narrow squeaky walkways.

Back to the city, Datong itself is dotted with its own assortment of ancient landmarks, such as the Drum Tower, Nine Dragon Screen, and Huayan Monastery. The Drum Tower is located in the downtown area, rising above the shorter buildings of the city and making itself a key point of reference. The Nine Dragon Screen, a preserved Ming dynasty wall section, is 8m high, 45m long and 2m thick, about four times larger and 350 years older than a similar one in Beijing's Beihai Park. There are a few other minor dragon walls in Datong. The Huayan Monastery is unusual in that it faces east whereas most temples in China face south. It's one of China's few remaining wooden Buddhist temples. 

Practical Tips
This area is located on the Loess Plateau, more than 1,100m above sea level. Often affected by the Siberian cold front, the annual temperature averages between 5°C and 7°C. Summers are cool, but in winter the temperature can drop to -13°C. It's hottest in July and coldest in January. Datong China International Travel Service  can arrange tours to the Yungang Caves and Hanging Temple for RMB 100. Most tours depart at 9am and finish around 6pm. They can also help buy train tickets.

The ten-day Yungang International Travel Festival is held annually in August. The festival features various exhibitions on folk customs and a multitude of variety shows.

Transportation
Bus - The long distance bus station is located on Xinjian Nan Lu. There are daily buses from Datong to Beijing.
Taxi - Taxis are RMB 5 at flag-fall for full-sized cabs.
Train - Daily trains from Datong to Beijing are about 5 hours. Trains to Xi'an take about 16 hours.

The Best of Datong

A young boy greet visitors during the Chinese New Year

Hanging Temple
Add:  Hunyuan County
Open Time:  6am to 7pro, peak-season
            8am to 5pm, off-sea