Yangshuo's Charmed Existence        2008-6-25 9:38:05

Just over an hour south of Guilin, Yangshuo, with its natural scenery and laid back air, is a great escape from the gray and pollution of China's big cities.

The town of Yangshuo is a backpacker's paradise. Quirky souvenir shops and essential services like internet cafes, telecom services, food guzzling corners and pharmacies abound. Yangshuo town has flourished so swiftly that it is practically unrecognizable from the latest edition of whichever guidebook you own - new streets have sprouted up with shops offering all sorts of comfort foods, the main thoroughfare has been widened to accommodate the growing volume of traffic. Clusters of shops selling herbs, teas and daily provisions line the inner alleyways.

A lively buzz hums throughout the cobbled streets. Young and old gravitate towards the chill-out joints, especially along West Street, a 2km stretch crammed with shops, pubs, cafes and hotels. Here's where flickering neon lights have replaced red lanterns and the air is rich with band music and banter.

Yangshuo's subtropical weather, characterized by temperate summers and winters, encourage the travel-weary to lounge by numerous street-front cafes, enjoy a banana pancake and sip an ice-cold beer or two.

The western face of the remodeled town is juxtaposed with the eastern charm of the postcard-perfect natural scenery. Dotting the horizon are craggy tree-covered mounds ranging from 100m to 300m high.
 
This little county of some 300,000 inhabitants, comprised of various ethnic groups such as the Zhuang, Yao, Miao and Han, has blossomed since the Sui dynasty some 1,400 years ago. Glimpses of the rich cultural background can be seen in the many shops selling local products such as talcum, silk, huge wall fans, scrolls and exquisite pottery pieces.

Enriching the land are the pristine waters of the Jinbao (jinbao ½ð±¦) and Li rivers (lijiang Àì½­), the latter winding some 56km through Yangshuo, connecting it with Guilin. The river is central to Yangshuo's prosperity; river water is funneled to irrigate the lush fields. Most locals still work the land on the paddy fields and orchards punctuating Yangshuo - many peaks, though a growing number of locals are involved in the more profitable tourism industry.

Walking, biking, rafting or swimming are several ways to appreciate Yangshuo's charms. To beat the noonday heat, take a leaf from the village children frolicking in the clear river waters, often seen watching over a herd of buffaloes or wielding homemade fishing rods fashioned from bamboo.

Bamboo groves and willow trees line both banks of the waterfront, and locals use the light but hardy plant to build wafer-thin rafts to fish, rinse vegetables or ferry tourists from one embankment to the next. When visiting the water caves, these bamboo river taxis will bring you close up to stalactites as they slide effortlessly beneath dipping limestone canopies.

UNRAVELING YANGSHUO
There is plenty au naturel to see in Yangshuo: karst peaks, plains and villages. Fortunately, Yangshuo's many pretty sights are incredibly well-connected. Rent a bike for a day from one of the many bicycle rental shops in Yangshuo and drink in the sights as you pedal.

A leisurely 30-minute ride from Yangshuo. and to the west of the highway, is Moon Hill. a limestone pinnacle with a moon-shaped hole square m the middle. It cost RMB 9 to access Moon Hill s superb view, there are stairs that lead from the bottom of Moon Hill to its windy, arched peak. Be prepared for a good workout as you haul yourself to the top. The path gets narrower, rougher and more slippery as you near the peak, but the panoramic view is worth the sweat. If you start at 5:30am. You can make it in good time for the electrifying sunrise. On a clear day, you get a rewarding 360-degree-view of karst topography and Jinbao River unfurling in the distant horizon. If you're hungry from your climb, head for Moon Hill Village, just across the road from Moon Hill. Mama Moon is a sprightly tour guide who speaks a smattering of eight foreign languages and whips up a delicious spread of village fare for the famished including tomato and egg omelets, fresh fish, steamed chicken, and tasty winter melon soup.

Climbing enthusiasts will be thrilled with the thousands of natural peaks to test their rock-climbing skills. Climbing equipment is easily available from Mountain Retreat, Lizard Lounge and Karst Cafe all located in Yangshuo. Suggested peaks include Copper Door (opposite Mountain Retreat), Gold Cat Hill and Thumb Peak.Or try scaling slippery Green Lotus Hill, Upper and Lower Antenna Hills,

Just a stone's throw away is a series of newly opened caves: Black Buddha Caves, Water Caves and Dragon Cave. Entrance fee ranges from RMB 100 to a steep RMB 120 per person. The Water Caves have garnered rave reviews, but be prepared to leave damp and slightly dirty from your splashing about. The boat ride into th